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La Ruta de los Pioneros

February 3, 2020 Iohan Gueorguiev
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Aafter 5 days of packrafting and walking I was at the start of the Ruta de los Pioneros (wikiexplora page here). It started off quite nicely on the road grade and with great weather

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eventually leading to a forested part and always great views toward the icy mountains

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Then there was a boggy and buggy part. I already had a river crossing so not having to worry about keeping your shoes dry is very liberating. At any other part of the world the cows would move for you… but here, i think you would move for the cows

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The forest opened up and the light was amazing, the only thing interrupting the silence is me occasionally slapping myself in an effort to get one of these horse flies. But when I stop, somehow the birds always take note and come around to sing.

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The valley finally opens up toward the first pass. I was told to cross low and find a way through to the right side of the valley but looking at the steepness decided to go for the original route and make the harder river crossing further up

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Few shovels and pikes around rocks where somebody had died mark the way down. It’s been a sunny day and the river is roaring but I walk and slide my way down to see that I need to go along the shore down for a little while and with the current weight of my backpack just decide that it will not work. Turn around and climb back up, mostly on 4’s.

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I make the easy crossing and head on straight up, not heading for somewhat possible route on the rocks because on the other side it looked too bad.

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Just as I reached the forest, a small path appears and it seems to be going the right way along the escarpment

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I spot the original crossing and the little cairn on top. Yeah this does not look very safe… second photo shows the route I needed to take just above the river

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The trail joins a bigger path (the one by the rocks that I thought was impossible) and takes me up above and just a short bush walk to the main trail

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I struggle to decide which is the best moment of the day - taking off the backpack or taking off the shoes.

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I sleep like a bag of potatoes well into the morning while it rains outside. (not sure if that expression translates well?) Yesterday was unnecessarily tough with the climb up and just now I can go out and appreaciate the big blue glacier just across the valley

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I arm up the monster backpack and I go, thinking of all the things I will leave at the next town and how I should really look into ultralight options, especially if planning to hike extensively.

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Really good time to be out and I am glad I waited out the morning rain. Sunny but the winds keep it cool

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both little and big birds take attention to me.

The route descends through green meadows and through the most unusual rocks

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and the sheer force of the water and the thunder was almost too much to stick around and admire it. Gotta cross that again further down

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There were a total of 4 trips across Rio Bravo but all somewhat okay and with the help of a large piece of wood it felt very stable.

Most of the day is spend adjusting the shoulder straps, putting my neoprene socks or top under to make it more comfortable but never really finding a good spot. When I take off the backpack I can breathe properly again and I call the camp at an old corral and catch some rays of sunshine. As the night falls I hear mooing across the valley and cows gather and go to wherever they go at night, it wasn’t to the corral

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the putting on of the backpack is always done on the ground, followed by a roll to my knees and then one foot forward and up. It is getting a lot more manageable now.

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some up and down and I stumble upon a dutch hiker, Tom and we spend the rest of the day walking and chatting. He is a crazy guy that crossed that river at the proper crossing. about 6’3” and with hiking poles and in the morning of course.

we stumble upon signs of improved trail.

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The trail is tough but having company I realize that frequent breaks are great and work wonders on how the day goes. I am just used to going in one go or taking one break. The trail does a fair bit up and down, some mud, lots of bugs but they seem to like Tom more. The end of day takes us through a nice flat section and a trail that makes you wish you had a bike!

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New Year camp at another old corral

I get to check out his entire setup, weighing in at less than half the weight of mine (i think, we did not have a scale). Everything from tent to water filtration system was well picked and I took plenty of notes. Even the European dehydrated meals were a giant step above the mountain house and backpackers pantry crap that is around north america. They come vacuum sealed already, one tear to open and then another tear when the meal is ready so that you dont need a super long spoon to eat.

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we hike out together in the morning to the lake where I take the water route and he goes overland. Its a calm and nice day to be out in the water and away from the bugs

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Having spotted a boat at the end, I assume the trail must have been good enough for that boat to be carried from the other lake and opt to keep my boat inflated as I make my way through.

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Lago Christie turns out to be in a worse mood with the wind but all paddalable with some rough water around the corners. As the winds increase I land at the house of Reuben Pradena and spend the night there.

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The rest of the lake in the morning starts out good but it really was windy, making me rethink having the windsail - while it definitely helps it is too risky having it as a gust of wind can easily flip you over and taking it down requires that you put down the paddle for at least few seconds (if you are quick) which is just enough to get turned sideways and possibly lose control of the boat.

I pack up at the dock and get onto walking the road, wondering if i should hitchhike or walk it

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I put in at Rio Mayer a little too early and get to do some rapids which with the river current and my top-heavy load was not ideal. Another note in addition to looking up how to install the spraydeck is to read up on the Tzip system as having gear inside the boat will greatly improve stability.

One rapid nearly takes me out and I make a move with the paddle to prevent the flip, never seen it done but somehow it felt very natural.

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I pack up and push on into the evening to find a good camp and eat my last meal - some oatmeal for the morning and that is it.

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I walk for an hour in the morning but yesterday’s road walking (about 20km) was just too tough on my feet and wait for a car to take me the rest of the way to Villa O’higgins

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I mail back a good chunk of gear including the neoprene top, heavy neoprene gloves, tripod, camera slider and few other things and spend few days extremely well fed.

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wondering, thinking about how Lake Ohiggins will be and stocking up on food. Many cyclists pass by the hostel and I get to chat about bikes, even spot a trek 920 in the flesh (or in the metal?), google spray deck installation on the packraft and proper use & care of the zipper compartment.

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maybe my bike would make a good wall decoration here?

Tags south america, packrafting, hiking, chile, patagonia
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