in my effort to stay as close to the Andes as possible, I am heading out on another small track with uncertain road conditions and various possible options on the map. This post picks up near Rio Sico in Chubut, Argentina.
having met plenty of that in the past, i always look at any rocks purposefully placed on the road and what kind of conflict this may symbolize. Are fisherman, 4x4 and tourists venturing into land where the locals dont want them to?
either way, i dont think i would be running into anyone for the next few days
the views stretched for miles all the way around and while the shining sun looked great on the clouds, i knew that this would only mean soft snow… or worse - MUD.
after few tries, snow, ditch snow or even open pampa was better to advance forward than the half-melted mud-water road.
I was walking but thinking how much easier this would be in the morning when its cold. Like 100% rideable. There was basically no dry spots but in the distance at max zoom on the camera, i saw a house. At the very least I think it would have a porch or a dry area nearby and likely a water source
and more than that it had a big open barn which I made just in time before a snow cloud came by and dumped some more snow
no frost on the tent and packing up under a roof is amazing. Early start to catch the sunrise and perfect riding on the now frozen road. So easy infact that i dont think i took much photos aside from some birds and what not until lunch break
I did not take my planned route but turned off on a drier track which ended up taking me to where i wanted to go eventually. The local arrieros have a custom of hanging dead animals on fences and while i try to understand their protectiveness of their animals crossing into a different ranch is a pretty gloomy business. Wild pigs and foxes killed (trapped?) and hung on the fence maybe as an example to other predators or worse - as a source of pride.
i joined the main road some 20-30k up from the town and it was a smooth sailing from there with mostly tailwind
by far the worst thing for Argentina is the siesta, the mid-day break from 1-5 that means everything is closed and riding into town, low on food supplies just means i’ll need to take an extended break until the stores open.
on the way out i saw some soldiers out for a run and i asked one if he knows how to get to that rock.
he said there isnt a road but looked at my bike and said “you can just go”
and as i was riding out of town, stocked on water and wondering where i can camp tonight, a track went off in direction of the rock.
maybe i can just go…
I set up here thinking, the view is worth the wind but i was extremely lucky with mellow wind. At 7am the gale began and i was lucky to only bend a tent pole while packing up. No gear or clothing flew away. It was a smooth tailwind ride continuing on the road which seemed to be taking me in the right direction to the old Ruta 40
I had it all planned out, arrive at town before siesta time, get food and continue south. Some interesting connections and a lot of flat pampa. The wind, however was some of the strongest i have faced, a little weaker than the one in the high altitude puna but consistent and as it is still winter down here, very cold.
the quick ride to town turned out to be not so quick
some target practice while joining the main road
arriving at siesta time in argentinian puna town is like some post apocalyptic setting. everything closed. nobody on the streets and dust and sand being blown around along the spots with less trees.
about the only life is some strays wandering the streets
There is something about being in this kind of wind for few hours. I felt windswept, tired and frankly it was a bit hard to speak or think from all the cold. I looked at the way out of town and the few kilometers directly against the wind and decided that i can stay indoors tonight. Its a bit of hit and miss but eventually you can find a cabin place that will charge you per-person and with the current peso situation, $15 gets you a big nice cabin with hot water, hot shower and heating.
I also had a time to revise my plan and just the idea of spending days, weeks and months to Ushuaia in such wind was not appealing.
i’ll just go back to chile and the rain.
i planned for 2 days at least to reach the border as i was going west directly against the wind but some rain and a bit of snow meant that it wasnt as windy and i just rode there in less than half a day.
that meant i had extra veggies that i wont be able to eat before entering chile and i offered them to the argentinian army which happily took them. I am trying to imagine a similar scenario in Canada or USA, offering half an onion and a tomato to border guards? :)
I took a great lunch break out of the wind with the resident dog and chatted with the people here
adapt, improvise, overcome. The argentinian army is harnessing the power of the wind to keep things running
to go back to the point of strays (although this dog had a home) is that many would follow you if you show affection and/or give them food. The dog went out with me for a kilometer but after yelling at her to go back she took the note and went back. Unlike that Shadow dog that followed me for 2 weeks in chile!
and as for me, i trade the crazy wind for some rain and snow.
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