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Chile: To The Carretera Austral

November 13, 2019 Iohan Gueorguiev
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After a mere half day in the pampa winds I quickly decided to take my chances with the rain in chile than to keep going in the wind. Leaving Argentina for until the road ends in Chile. There was a great break with nice company at the argentinian border and onto Chile.

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The Chilean entry was more organised and quick. Instead of solar and windpower there was a generator buzzing, computers and that was about it. One might forget and take for granted crossing a border but in many countries in South America its a breeze and really makes for a great trip where time constraints are almost nonexistent. Your 90 day visa is out? easy, leave the country and come back! This would also explain why I have been taking increasingly long to get to Ushuaia!

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The Chilean roads are also smooth like butter compared to the Argentinian soft rocky tracks. The scenery was changing and I was happy to be closer to the mountains

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Riding in wind like this is always somewhat unsettling and its always there. It normally brings out some sort of urgency to find a sheltered place to camp but also the moments that you turn your back to it with your hood on are the best. I hung around the horses for a bit and even got to look at the other critters living in these rough climates

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eventually I found a relatively protected spot in some patch of planted trees giving a good balance of sun rays, a view and a quiet night.

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It was few hours to get to the first Chilean town and while I often make fun of chilean food for being bad - one thing is clear that the baked goods like empanadas are very good in Chile. Even if there is simply nowhere to sit and I find little wind cover by a fence along the plaza.

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While Tubeless has been absolutely amazing, I had gotten a little too bold few days ago and rode straight through many thorns, ending up puncturing the inside of the rim. Below the black liner, there is a layer of tyvek tape, plus one of duct tape. It keps leaking for few days even with duct tape or thermarest patch but I finally found some superglue and it seemed to work well under the duct tape.

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It was fairly uneventful few hours to the next town

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I made friends with a street cat at another break, the little stores in Chile seem to have everything.

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Then onto the Carretera Austral

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The clouds finally came down and it began raining and drizzling. I thought great, the wind will come down but that was certainly not the case!
(the sound is not that great!)

I found a road going off into a tree plantation and the overhanging branches were great cover from the rain

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the site even included a morning alarm and a brief departure ceremony

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and riding into Coyhaique on a bit of pavement was really nice. The man on that tractor is the king of the road! Casually riding at 10km/h with one dog on each side!

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Coyhaique and the nice rock to the south of town

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for the middle of nowhere, this is a well stocked town with supermarkets and restaurants and all that. I walked my bike into the big supermarket, asked the guard to keep an eye on my bike. Grabbed a basket and looked at the lines… and walked my bike out.
it was the beggining of the Chilean super long weekend and everything was crazy

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There was cell phone signal everywhere and i was also able to find an alternate route

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and this dog looked just like Shadow!

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it was really nice riding through farms and fields but at some point i began wondering, why are there so many cars? where are they coming and where are they going? there was nothing at the end of the road.

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closer to the mountains was a promise of a lake and hopefully a windless night.

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and I barely missed the sun but looking around it was too windy to camp

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it was one of the calmest camps in the last little while

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even if i got some suspicious looks from the locals

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it took few hours to get to the carretera austral and then onto pavement. It was all going well until snap. my crank flew out.

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Tags bikepacking, chile, patagonia, fatbike, south america
← The Carretera Austral: the end of the road!Mud, snow and wind →